Форум гитаристов

its a wire and turns and geometry are a clone of the original only diff was we did it on paper former multi stick wind vs bobbin single winding each pc. less costly old school multi wind paper former , and many say has a "warmer old school tube tone" vs bobbin. but if he wants an exact Partridge clone on plastic bobbin, then we would have to wind one special from here

Проволока, обмотка и размеры - клон оригинала. Единственное отличие, которое мы внесли - мы сделали его (трансформатор - прим. Via_Dolorosa) на бумажном каркасе катушки делая много оборотов против одного витка на каждой бобине в оригинале. Менее дорогой олдскульный многооборотный бумажный каркас катушки, как говорится "теплый ламповый звук" против бобины. Но если он (это про меня - прим. Via_Dolorosa) хочет точную копию Partridge  на пластиковой бобине, то мы мы намотаем одну индивидуально здесь

1) I used the schematic from mHuss.com for the early 70s preamp. All sorts of good info here: http://hiwatt.org/tech2.html
The schematic you listed if I remember right isn't so clear.

2) I've tubed my amp with vintage used tested tubes from The Tube Shop. http://www.thetubeshop.com/tubeshp3.htm

If you go this route you can get some really nice tubes for not much more than new ones, and believe it or not, used-tested tubes I've had last longer than new preamp tubes. I'm not a fan of Sovtek, or their relabed "Mullard" tubes, The Mullard reissue tubes from Sovtek (New Sensor) really are bland. For new tubes, JJ's are fine. I hear the Tung Sol RI are good too but they are also by Sovtek (New Sensor).

For EL34s, I really like SED =C=. SEDs are pretty well made and sound good to my ear. I'd rank JJ EL34s second.

3) For capacitors, I'd use Sozo caps, the yellow ones. The standard line is what Sozo actually recommended to me for Hiwatt's, not their more expensive "script" label ones. The Sozo company said the standard "mustard" caps they use are more full frequency than the "script mustards" and they think this is better for Hiwatt. They recommend the scripts for Marshall amps.

For electrolytics, Sprague and JJ are good.

I'd avoid carbon comp resistors... their performance varies. In fact Hiwatts typically use carbon film or metal film resistors for their greater accuracy and reliability. I just mention this since carbon comp resistors are hyped. I don't think these make a real tonal difference. Or to put it this way, it's not a huge deal compared to, well, everything else :-)

4) Speakers make a HUGE difference. Speakers make a bigger difference than any other component, and that includes the transformers, tubes, capacitors, resistors, etc. Choose wisely. The classic Hiwatt sound would be Fane. Reeves Vintage Purples get a lot of hype, but I'm not a fan, the highs are not pleasant. I'd recommend finding something from Fane, Celestion, or WeberVST. I don't like Weber's FC12 (kind of dark), but their Thames are nice. Fane Medusa's are better. I also like Celestion G12-65s (for a softer more midrangy sound) and believe it or not, Hiwatt's aren't so bad with G12T-75s (I don't own 75s but a friend tried it and liked it).