И я считаю свое мнение правильным, так как масло создано именно для пропитки дерева. Это ясно любому нормальному человеку, который умеет логически рассуждать.
Если бы нужно было средство только для очистки, то есть куча других органический растворителей, которые гораздо эффективнее для очистки от биоматериалов типа пота, кожи, жира.
Дерево очень часто именно пропитывают маслом, для нормализации поглощения влаги, в том числе защиты от загрязнений загрязнений (в пропитанное дерево меньше "въедается грязь, если по-крестьянски), растрескивания, предотвращения пересушки.
Пропитка дерева - это нормальная процедура и очень часто используется.
Так что я считаю свое мнение правильным.
Только без придуманных рецептов на 20 минут (или нескольких часов, как у некоторых совсем отмороженных)
Rosewood and Ebony do not need to be conditioned.
Just use a firm toothbrush along the edges of the frets and wipe the fretboard off with a cotton shirt or sock.
Fingerboards are not actually hungry and don't really need to be fed
You do not need to oil your rosewood fretboard
Rosewood & Pao Ferro fingerboards are not actually hungry and don't really need to be fed.
Pau Ferro is technically a species of rosewood itself (Bolivian rosewood), so it'll be about the same as taking care of Indian or Brazilian rosewood would be...
Сleaning
I have used regular Zippo lighter fluid and a cotton T-shirt for over 20 years on my Rosewood boards to clean them if they are gunky.
1.) A bright semi-shiny fingerboard appearance that many guitarists confuse with being "clean" will actually attract dirt and grime, thus making it much grubbier much sooner, thus further compounding the problem;
2.) A side effect of that is that the grime and dust and grit that adheres to the surface of an oiled fingerboard literally acts like sandpaper in slow motion, substantially accelerating wear - especially on rosewood fingerboards;
and
3.) If oiling continues over a number of years, the oils themselves eventually migrate through the pores in the fretboard wood and down into the glue joint that holds the fretboard onto the neck, weakening it and in some cases causing delamination. Oil seepage through to the neck can also make any major work involving removing the fretboard problematic, as it can be difficult to impossible to reattach the fretboard.
A simple, inexpensive, effective method to remove dirt, grime ... and make the frets shiny on non-lacquered/finished fingerboards is to use 000 or 0000 steel wool, always rubbing along the length of the fingerboard, not across the fingerboard.
Fingerboards don't need to be "fed" or "conditioned". People do it because they think they should do something, and other people want to sell them something they can do.
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